By Michael Franz

Wednesday, September 8, 2004; Page F07

Fifth in an occasional series on wines that reflect the unique connection between a particular grape and the region where it grows best.

Wine is famously -- or perhaps infamously -- complicated. Thousands of different grapes are grown in different ways in all sorts of soils and climates before the winemaking process even begins. Moreover, the process involves many stages and countless variations that affect the finished product in significant ways. All of this adds up to a spectacularly complex equation.

I think this is great, since wine's complexity keeps me employed, but many consumers find it irksome. However, it is possible to ease your search for great wine by relying on a small set of simple relationships: special synergies in which a grape and a particular place work together to make something magically delicious.

The clearest example of this phenomenon is the synergy between the Malbec grape and the Mendoza region in Argentina. Malbec's origins lie in France, where the grape has been in conspicuous decline for more than a century. There, it is sensitive to an array of maladies that affect grapes, including coulure, frost damage, downy mildew and bunch rot.

Consequently, vignerons have deserted Malbec in droves, and the only significant French appellation in which Malbec now plays a leading role is Cahors, in the southwest. Cahors can be pretty good, but only the most fervent Francophiles think it is a great wine.

Malbec made the trip to South America when modern vineyards were established there in the mid-19th century. It found its true home in the front range of the Andes above Mendoza, where the grape has ascended from pretty good to truly great, making Malbec Argentina's best wine. (Which is not to endorse the view expressed in this space last week by fellow columnist Ben Giliberti that Argentina has surpassed Chile. More on this in an upcoming column.)

Growing conditions in this remarkable area are almost perfectly suited to Malbec's needs, forgiving its vulnerabilities and enhancing its strengths. The best vineyards are situated at altitudes between 2,000 and 3,500 feet above sea level. The Andes block Pacific storms as well as the smog that often afflicts Santiago on the Chilean side of the peaks.

The combination of high altitude and pure air makes for particularly intense sunlight and, therefore, strong photosynthetic ripening in Mendoza's vineyards. Warm daytime temperatures also help with ripening, but thanks to the cool nights of the high-altitude setting, Malbec grapes retain sufficient acidity to be balanced and pure rather than jammy or raisiny in their ripeness.

The weather-related problems the Malbec endures in France are greatly minimized in the moderate climate above Mendoza, where frost is not a problem. Although the area is relatively dry in terms of rainfall, water for irrigation is available in abundance from rivers carrying runoff from the Andean snowpack. Dry conditions make it virtually unnecessary to spray against the risk of rot. Just about the only fly in the ointment comes in the form of hail, caused by occasional atmospheric turbulence resulting from the Andes.

No place is perfect. But for Malbec, this region is very close indeed. The wines are big, rich and deeply flavored, yet rounded and luxurious in texture. Their softness permits early enjoyment, but they also age well. Similarly, the wines are sufficiently rich to stand up to red meat dishes, but soft enough to work with pork, veal or grilled fish steaks.

Perhaps best of all, the Malbec grapes grown around Mendoza are so clean, with flavors so pure, that even inexpensive renditions are delightful -- provided that vintners don't overwhelm them with oak.

Top performers from my recent tastings are reviewed in order of preference here, with approximate prices and importers indicated in parentheses:

Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira 2001 ($56, TGIC): Powerful but perfectly balanced, this shows lovely fruit with deep flavors and intricate aromatic notes. A thoroughbred.

Dolium "Gran Reserva" 2000 ($50, Elite): Impressively rich and concentrated but very smooth in texture, with dark berry fruit edged by notes of cocoa, smoke and spices.

Bodega Lurton Piedra Negra 2001 ($30, ExCellars): Dark and intensely flavored, with strong oak notes effectively counterbalanced by rich, pure fruit.

Susana Balbo 2002 ($27.50, Vine Connections): Full and fleshy in flavor and texture, with rich fruit in the foreground and exceptionally well-integrated oak.

Tikal "Amorio" 2002 ($30, Vine Connections): A big, exotic, smoky wine with lots of oak but fine balance thanks to rich, intensely flavorful fruit.

Luca 2001 ($37, Vine Connections): A very serious wine that will benefit from further aging, this features lovely dark cherry fruit, strong, spicy oak, and enough acidity to remain fresh in the future.

Doña Paula "Selección de Bodega" 1999 ($15, Vineyard Brands): An amazingly delicious, complex and mature wine in view of the approachable price, with fresh blackberry and plum fruit, a licorice note, and a very soft finish.

Mapema 2002 ($21, Vine Connections): A beautiful wine with lots of intensity and power but charm as well, thanks to ripe, fine-grained tannins.

Catena 2002 ($21, Billington): Catena Malbecs have sometimes seemed too oaky, but this is a model of purity and balance, with deliciously juicy, tender fruit.

Ben Marco 2002 ($19.50, Vine Connections): Still tight and woody, this nevertheless has a bright future, with intense blackberry fruit that is up to the challenge of balancing a serious dose of smoky oak.

La Posta Angel Paulucci Vineyard 2002 ($15, Vine Connections): A terrific wine for the money, with excellent concentration, intense flavors and a soft, charming finish.

Navarro Correas "Coleccion Privada" 2001 ($12, Palm Bay): Unusually light in both color and weight but supremely tasteful, with great delicacy and purity of aroma.

Broquel 2002 ($15, Wildman): A muscle wine at an unusually approachable price, this is dense and deeply flavored but still typically rounded, with no trace of harshness.

Salentein 2002 ($11, San Francisco Wine Exchange): Impressive color and depth of flavor at this price point, with substantial weight but still fruity and elegant.

Bodega Lurton Reserva 2002 ($10, ExCellars): Gutsy but also surprisingly sophisticated, with ripe fruit and nice oak edging.

Budini 2002 ($10, Vine Connections): Rounded and soft, but with flavors that pack a punch.

Trumpeter (Tupungato) 2003 ($9, Billington): Nice smoky oak frames the soft, ripe berry fruit.

Trapiche "Oak Cask" 2002 ($10, Wildman): Oaky as advertised, but still balanced and pleasantly soft.

"Andes Peak" (Dolium) 2001 ($8, Elite): Unbelievably good for the price, with nice fruit and a very soft feel.

Los Cardos 2003 ($6, Vineyard Brands): Had cheap wine been this good when I was in school, I might not have bothered with getting a job. Fine berry flavors, with good concentration and depth.

Michael Franz will offer additional recommendations and answer questions live today at noon on washingtonpost.com.