Sunday, December 26, 2004; Page P01

Room keys

CoGo reader Albert Diaz of Rockville enjoyed his recent stay at the Skyland Resort in Shenandoah National Park but was dismayed to find on checking out a $4-per-day charge for water.

"What's next? A linen charge? An electricity charge? A carpeting charge?" he asked CoGo in an e-mail.

In fact, concessionaires on National Park Service land frequently buy water and electricity from the government, and when the utilities cost more than in the private sector, are allowed to pass along the difference. Most build such charges into their rates but are not required to, said Robbie Brockwehl, a concession property manager for NPS.

Mike Slowinski, general manager of Skyland, says the resort formerly built the water charge into its room rates, but this year broke it out. He said Skyland then reduced its room rates by $4, so guests are actually saving money by not having to pay taxes on the surcharge. "When you book, the reservations agent will tell you. You'll see it at check-in, and it's in our advertising," he said.

CoGo called the Skyland reservations line, asked for a room and was quoted rates of $89 and $102 per night. "Does that include everything?" CoGo asked. "It doesn't include food," the agent responded. "But is that the total charge?" CoGo persisted. "That's the room charge," replied the agent. Not until CoGo asked specifically about surcharges did the clerk mention the water charge. Even then, the dollar amount wasn't provided.

Brockwehl said her office has gotten only one complaint about the Skyland surcharge. Consider this the second.

BUS WARS

CoGo has long been a fan of the cheap alternatives to Greyhound buses between Washington and New York City, frequently hopping on a Washington Deluxe, Today Travel or Dragon Express coach for $20 one way ($35 round trip). Last week, returning to D.C. from Manhattan, CoGo tried the newest bus on the block, Vamoose, leaving from West 31st Street near Penn Station at 5:30 p.m. on Sunday.

One difference was immediately apparent: Vamoose divvied up passengers into two coaches according to which of its Northwest dropoff points they wanted: 40th and Albemarle streets NW ( adding a neighborhood to the cheap bus circuit), or 14th and I streets NW. Washington Deluxe, by comparison, uses the same bus to drop passengers off at both its stops.

The clean bathroom, gregarious driver and relatively recent movies ("First Knight" and "Lara Croft: Tomb Raider") made it an easy ride, but CoGo's knees were just as squished and it took just as long to get home as with other companies (arrival time: 10:40 p.m.). So, as long as the fares are the same, CoGo's loyalty is to whichever bus leaves from the easiest location at the right time.

For schedules: Vamoose, 877-393-2828, www.vamoosebus.com; Washington Deluxe, 866-287-6932, www.washny.com; Today Travel and Dragon Express, www.ivymedia.com (where you can purchase tickets for all companies). Greyhound is currently offering an Internet-only $20 one-way fare. Details: www.greyhound.com.Mid-January, Vamoose plans to increase fares to $25 one way, $45 round trip. No word from its competitors on whether they plan to follow suit.

TRAVEL TICKER

The Renaissance Las Vegas Hotel (3400 Paradise Rd., 866-352-3434) opened last month as the largest non-gaming hotel in Nevada, with 548 rooms and 30 suites. Rates range from $139 to $209 per night . . . San Francisco revives its "Dine-About- Town" program in January, with more than 100 restaurants offering three-course prix-fixe menus at $21.95 for lunch, $31.95 for dinner. Details: www.sfvisitor.org.

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK

Fly from Newark to Australia starting at $899 round trip, plus about $190 taxes. Details: What's the Deal?, Page P3.

Reporting: Cindy Loose,

Anne McDonough.

Help feed CoGo. Send travel news, road reports and juicy tattles to: cogo@washpost.com. By fax: 202-912-3609. By mail: CoGo, Washington Post Travel Section, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071.