Haute is out, downscale is in at many new New York restaurants, where designer burgers, simple pizzas and even southern barbecue are the rage. Here are three delicious memories from my recent visit:
BLUE HILL (75 Washington Pl., 212-529-1776)
Once a speakeasy, the current occupant prides itself on shopping at local farm markets for much of what foes on its seasonally-inspired American menu. Tuck into roast chicken with braised cabbage, braised cod with Brussels sprouts, and warm rice pudding served with a "stew" of dried fruit in a small dining room with a big heart. Dinner entrees. $23-$28.
L'IMPERO (45 Tudor City Pl., 212-599-5045)
The hottest ticket in town is off the beaten dining path near the U.N., where chef Scott Conant turns out an Italian menu that is by turns rustic and refined. One taste of his sparkling seafood sampler, pasta filled with braised duck and foie gras, or roasted baby goat and you'll discover what the fuss is about. Can't decide? The best way to explore the full range of his skill is to order the $48 four-course tasting menu. Walls of teal, gentle lighting and outsized mirrors on several levels wrap diners in a cocoon of elegance. Dinner entrees $19-$28.
ENTOTECA OTTO PIZZERIA (One Fifth Ave., 212-995-9559)
In a sprawling series of dining rooms in Greenwich Village, co-owner Mario Batali of Food Network fame is pulling in crowds with his griddle-cooked pizzas and extensive tribute to regional Italian wines. Take your pick from crusts scattered with toppings such as thinly sliced potato, anchovy and ricotta cheese; clams, chilies and garlic; or even lardo (make that cured salt pork). To begin a meal, consider some very good antipasti--the fried snacks are first-rate--and don't say "ciao" without a dish of the kitchen's sublime gelato. Pizzas $9-$14.
