One affordable luxury in Paris I try never to miss: ice cream from Berthillon (31 Rue St.-Louis-en-l'Ile). Between snacks, here's where I like to dine:
AMBASSADE D'AUVERGNE (22 Rue du Grenier-St.-Lazare, 3rd arrondissement). The flickering candles and hams hanging from low wood beams lend a warm and rustic air to the dining room, which welcomes its guests with generous plates of south-central French fare. Among the signature dishes are stuffed cabbage and aligot, a soothing whip of potatoes, cheese curds and garlic served from a copper pot. Both are offered on the three-course gourmet menu (about $25 a person). A stroll to the nearby Pompidou Center should help burn off the chocolate mousse.
ASTRANCE (4 Rue Beethoven, 16th). Order chef Pascal Barbot's "surprise" tasting menu and what you get is an evening of pure bliss -- the bread basket just might be Paris's best, and I still dream about the "ravioli" fashioned from sheer avocado slices and brilliant fresh crab. Gracious service and a spare, stylish setting add to the charm of this A-list address, which opened in October near the Eiffel Tower. Dinner for two, with wine, costs about $130.
LE CINQ (31 Ave. George V, 8th). Everything about it spells opulence, from the champagne cart that rolls up to greet you to the pedigree of chef Philippe Legendre, lured away from the fabled Taillevent. Small wonder that this modern food temple in the luxurious George V hotel just garnered two stars from Michelin. Bring a fat wallet: My lunch for two with wine set me back two Franklins. But I'm happier, having indulged in sea bream cooked over pine needles and lobster dipped in chestnut-sweetened butter.
