You can't blame a chef for wanting to make his or her own banh mi. The best Vietnamese sandwiches 'round these parts are all clustered in Northern Virginia, which, for those chefs not based in the hinterlands of Falls Church, requires a trip and an investment of time that most kitchen drones just don't have.
So increasingly, they're making their own versions of what has to be the world's most perfect sandwich, a combination of France's love for richness (pate, mayonnaise) and Vietnam's affection for pungency and contrasts (pickled vegetables and fish sauce to pair with that pate and mayo). Master baker Mark Furstenberg, for example, had constructed a monstrously meaty interpretation back when he was at G Street Food, while Dino chef and owner Dean Gold created the "white guy Asian" banh mi layered with duck liver, wild boar pate and wild boar prosciutto.
Both were an homage to the banh mi, and both were a long way from Vietnam.
Read the rest of the item over at Going Out Gurus.