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All We Can Eat
Posted at 12:00 PM ET, 06/21/2012

Dorie Greenspan, shop owner: The deets

Beurre & Sel cookies will have that distinctive, clean-edged, CookieBar look. (Dorie Greenspan)
News broke yesterday that Dorie Greenspan’s going all brick-and-mortar, but as fans of the baking maven prove time and again, the public’s hunger for Dorie details is as bottomless as the Cookie Monster’s.

Later this summer, Greenspan, her son, Joshua, and business partner/culinary school grad Daniel Seehoff are opening two NYC cookie boutiques: one at the Essex Street Market on the Lower East Side and another at La Marqueta in East Harlem. For the past few years, the mother-and-son duo have run their pop-up CookieBars, waiting for the right space and opportunities to become permanent retailers.

Dorie Greenspan, at last year’s pop-up CookieBar. Her Beurre & Sel customers will be able to see her daily. (CookieBar)
For their new venture, named Beurre & Sel, they will bake at La Marqueta, a market born in the mid-1930s (as was Essex Street) that is coming back to life. The Essex Market space is tiny enough to be referred to as The Shower by market vendors. Boutique’s the key word, Greenspan says.

“I get excited every time I go into the Essex market,” Dorie told All We Can Eat. “Some stands have been there since the place started. They have Heritage Meat, Shopsins, Blue Bottle Coffee. . .It’s a mix of traditional, artisan, hipster. It has a great vibe. Our neighbor at La Marqueta is Hot Bread Kitchen, a nonprofit organization that trains women to bake bread. How great is that?”

No matter the flavor, Greenspan’s cookies will have that distinctive look, thanks to lots of recipe R&D and hundreds of three-inch metal rings, made especially for her by a family friend. “The cookies get a straight, sleek side,” she says. “They’ll be beautiful and taste homemade. Baking them in rings changes the texture; it makes the shortbread even more shortbread-y.”

In between pop-ups, Greenspan has kept huge tubs full of 600 to 900 rings at home. “Now I’m kind of ring crazy,” she says. “Every time I look at a cookie, I say, ‘Is it ring-able?’ I may find a use for them as jewelry!”

The Beurre & Sel (that’s “butter and salt”) menu’s not set yet, but Greenspan promises to do the same, smaller cocktail cookies she sold at CookieBar, which are sweet-savory, meant to be enjoyed with wine. (She might have popped into the recent Summer Fancy Food Show here to do some intel, but we’ll never tell. )

The best news for Dorie’s following, some of whom cook through her books with fierce devotion, is that she plans to spend a lot of time behind the counter. “I’m actually looking forward to it,” she says. “I want to be there. I love to talk to cookie lovers.”

Son Josh says, “The best part about working with Mom is the cookies. This is my childhood and our memories, and it’s exciting to be able to share that.” 

While the construction and buying and designing for Beurre & Sel is underway, Greenspan will continue to work on her 11th cookbook, about baking in France.

Further reading:

* Tuesdays With Dorie comes to an end.

* Dorie in your kitchen? There’s an app for that.

By  |  12:00 PM ET, 06/21/2012

Tags:  Bonnie S. Benwick

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