The Virginia wine industry restructured its Governor’s Cup competition this year and ended up with a new winner: the Glen Manor Vineyards Hodder Hill 2009 Bordeaux-styled red blend.
The reorganized competition was designed to give Virginia wine more credibility on the national and international stage by splitting the competition into two rounds, with only the best wines advancing to compete for the top prize. And in addition to the Governor’s Cup, the competition this year awarded the “Governor’s Case” to the top 12 wines in the contest. These wines will be sent to wine publications, writers and bloggers as a representation of the best Virginia has to offer. The winning wines were announced tonight in Richmond by Governor Bob McDonnell.
Jeff White, owner and winemaker at Glen Manor, about 12 miles south of Front Royal, was characteristically modest about winning the top prize. “I’m excited and a little intimidated,” he told me in a phone interview earlier this week. He sounded tired after a long day at the winery and a trip to the county dump. Celebrity doesn’t change everything when you’re a farmer.
This was the first year White had entered his wines in the Governor’s Cup competition. Glen Manor has earned a reputation for excellent reds and sauvignon blanc, and was clearly one of the wineries the Virginia Wineries Association was trying to attract when it revamped the competition.
The 2009 Hodder Hill is a blend of 63 percent cabernet sauvignon, 25 percent merlot and 6 percent each cabernet franc and petit verdot. Ironically, those last two varietals are the grapes most people would argue perform best in Virginia.
“Cabernet sauvignon can do well too, if you have a good site,” White said. Glen Manor’s densely spaced vineyards are on steep slopes on the western side of the Blue Ridge Mountains, nestled against the Skyline Drive. They were protected from the rains that hit vineyards on the east side of the mountains during harvest season in 2009, White said.
McDonnell called the Hodder Hill “a stunning representation of the best in Virginia wines. Just as Virginia wines have been gaining acclaim here and abroad, we have raised the bar on the competition,” he said in a press release issued by the Virginia Wine Board marketing office. “This, and the other 11 wines that make up the Governor’s Cup Case, will make a fine addition to wine cellars everywhere, further enhancing the growing reputation of Virginia Wines.”
The Governor’s Case was intended to be an annual snapshot of the best of Virginia wine, and as such, it is instructive. Some notable names — such as Barboursville and Linden — were missing. While Glen Manor took top prize, nine of the 12 finalists were from the Charlottesville area. Of the 12 wines, five were Bordeaux-styled “meritage” red blends, including the Glen Manor. No viogniers or petit verdots made the cut, and only one cabernet franc. Only three white wines were represented, including one sparkling.
The final round consisted of 135 wines of more than 400 entered. They were evaluated by 15 judges, including two masters of wine, a master sommelier and several other representatives of the trade and media. (I was a judge in the final round, but not the preliminary tasting that selected the 135 wines to compete for the top prize.)
Here’s a list of the Governor’s Case wines:
Glen Manor Vineyards, Hodder Hill 2009 (Meritage)
Bluestone Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
Delfosse Vineyards 2007 Meritage
Jefferson Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Franc
Keswick Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve
Keswick Vineyards 2010 Merlot
King Family Vineyards 2008 Meritage
Potomac Point Winery 2009 Heritage Reserve (Meritage)
Tarara Winery 2010 Honah Lee (White Blend)
Trump Winery 2008 Kluge SP Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine
Veritas Vineyard 2010 Meritage
White Hall Vineyards 2010 Gewurztraminer