There’s something decidedly pre-Woodward and Bernstein about following a local chef to New York with the vague notion that the big-city sophisticates might praise his efforts. Such an assignment has a way of stripping away the veneer of journalistic objectivity and reducing the mighty Washington Post to that most rah-rah of institutions, the small-town, hometown newspaper.
But follow Cathal Armstrong is exactly what I did on Tuesday as the Restaurant Eve chef led a small army of banquet cooks to create an “ancient” Celtic dinner for the Archaeological Institute of America’s annual gala in Manhattan. Marshall Heyman, the Heard and Scene columnist for the Wall Street Journal, wrote an entertaining report of the party.
In next week’s Food section, I’ll give you a report on the story behind the meal — and why Armstrong refused to just lend his name to the project without being there to execute the dinner. You can decide then how objective this hometown newspaper was to one of its local chefs.
In the meantime, after the jump, you can see a few photos from the gala.
So how authentic was Armstrong’s ancient Celtic dinner? You’ll have to find out next Wednesday.