Narciso Rodriguez, the consummate minimalist, revealed a surprising array of patterns, colors and textures when he presented his spring collection at Lincoln Center Tuesday night.
A model sporting a sleek chignon coated in orange paint was the earliest indicator of a change in the air. From the first look, Rodriguez channeled a touch of the season’s fever for color and pattern, incorporating tomato red, orange, aqua and teal before ending the show with a series of six pure arctic white ensembles.
The stiff and structured shapes are Rodriguez at his most elemental — the designer’s trademark crisp lines and careful approach to color instill a feeling of uniformity throughout his collections.
Where the designer stepped out this time is in his use of geometric paneling, which yielded pieces that combined straight lines and perfect angles into a wearable, structured collage. If there can be such a thing as 2-D architecture, this is it. Straight and swirling lines coursed through sheer panels, barely concealing technicolor bras. Come summer, the long and lean members of his following will probably live in these breezy-but-forward-thinking looks.
At Tibi, designer Amy Smilovic achieved what she has been attempting for the past several seasons — distancing herself from the flirty printed frocks and girly separates that have comprised the Tibi brand to this point, and venture into more androgynous, adventurous territory.
With styling by Swedish blogger Elin Kling (who recently loaned her skills for an H&M collection), Smilovic turned out minimalist, sleek pantsuits, wide-leg trousers, trim bermuda shorts and jumpsuits. The duo imbued nearly every look with a subtle menswear vibe, resulting in a collection that felt like a new chapter, not a single out-of-body experience.
The palette was made up almost entirely of solid hues, save for a simple green-and-black pattern that appeared on four pieces. Comfortable-yet-elegant suiting and daywear that feels young and fresh, not boring? Kudos to Kling and Smilovic.