There’s a reason most people don’t surf and it has nothing to do with lack of proximity to an ocean with great big waves.
It’s scary. A person could get hurt. Or drown. But for braver souls, there’s a beauty to be found in a powerful wave, if a person does it right, and no one does it right more often than the Michael Jordan of surfing, Kelly Slater. In a mesmerizing video, Slater and GoPro show the ordinary schlub the serenity within a curl of water.