The Washington Post

Brickside Food & Drink poised for Bethesda

The name: Brickside Food & Drink. The address: 4866 Cordell Ave., last home to the now-you-see-it-now-you-don't Bubby's deli. Pace will be in charge of the kitchen while he trains a yet-to-be-hired sous chef; his new business partner, Brian Vasile, a co-owner of Grand Central, will serve as general manager of the 85-seat operation.

Black garage doors, brick walls and dark leather booths will set off the interior, which Pace describes as “Prohibition.” The owners (there are four altogether) aim to cater to diners early in the evening and drinkers as the night wears on. A DJ will assist with the latter Thursday through Saturday.

Soups, salads, fried calamari and polenta fries with blue cheese dip will be among the starters. Main courses, most under $25, will run from baby back ribs to a catch of the day. Pace also plans to offer pizza multiple ways: in the form of a sandwich; grilled; and made with brioche dough.

“This is a new challenge for me,” said Pace. Only one dish will carry over from his Italian restaurant: orecchiette with pork sausage, broccolini and tomato sauce.

Weaned on a beige buffet a la “Fargo” in Minnesota, Tom Sietsema is the food critic for The Washington Post. This is his second tour of duty at the Post. Sietsema got his first taste in the ‘80s, when he was hired by his predecessor to answer phones, write some, and test the bulk of the Food section’s recipes. That’s how he learned to clean squid, bake colonial cakes and distinguish between nutmeg and mace.


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