After a yearlong build out, Barry Koslow’s modern take on the classic Jewish deli is set to open Wednesday at 5:30 p.m. Located a block south of Dupont Circle, the restaurant joins BGR and the forthcoming GBD on what is becoming a dizzyingly acronymic stretch of Connecticut Avenue.
Koslow, who most recently cooked at Tallula, has created a menu that builds on foundational classics like pastrami, corned beef, beef tongue and matzo ball soup, with modern touches and new-world flavors: potato latkes served with creme fraiche alongside smoked salmon; a whitefish salad sandwich dressed with tomato jam; and a roasted turkey sandwich served on challah bread with gribenes and ... is that avocado?
Diners expecting counter service will have to wait a bit longer. DGS — the name recalls the District Grocery Stores cooperative, to which some 300 (mostly Jewish-run) stores belonged from the 1920s until 1972 — is launching with seated lunch and dinner service; a sandwich counter will begin serving walk-ins once things have settled, said Nick Wiseman, one of the restaurant’s partners.
A handsome, light, minimal design integrates with exposed brick in the century-old building, making DGS among the best-looking spaces in the neighborhood. The 70 seats include 10 at the bar, which is run by Brian Zipin, formerly the assistant sommelier at Citronelle and general manager at Central. Zipin showcases a continent-hopping beer list, with Genesee Cream Ale right above Tsingtao, and a handful of craft cocktails.