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Posted at 12:43 PM ET, 12/13/2011

Food in focus: Chameleon

Inside the Chameleon restaurant in Baltimore. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

The Baltimore charmer Chameleon is still staying true to its vision of simple, seasonal Mid-Atlantic cuisine done right, says critic Tom Sietsema. Scott Suchman’s images are enough to inspire a trip up 95.

To make his pork rilletes, chef Jeff Smith buys whole hogs, breaks them down and turns the slow-cooked meat and its fat into slabs of pink porcine pleasure. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Another look inside Chameleon’s dining room. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

The choucroute garni at Chameleon is a strapping platter of pork loin chop, zesty house-made garlic sausage, ham hock and carrots and potatoes. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Chef and Baltimore native Jeff Smith serves inspired versions of the Mid-Atlantic cuisine he grew up with. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

The uber-moist chocolate cake at Chameleon is layered with caramel and sprinkled with sea salt. It’s just one of the stellar desserts from pastry chef Bernadette Jocson. (Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

By  |  12:43 PM ET, 12/13/2011

Categories:  Restaurants

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