On the line: Graffiato’s Mike Isabella. (By Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)

For his dining column in Sunday’s Washington Post Magazine, Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema visited one of the city’s most hyped new restaurants: Mike Isabella’s Graffiato. While Sietsema wasn’t thrilled with the spot’s pacing or noise level, he enjoyed most of what hit his plate, including summery agnolotti and a perfect plate of hand-cut spaghetti. As the man behind the camera, photographer Scott Suchman captured the scene at the restaurant.

The alluring sweet and sour eggplant salad is a still life in purple and green. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

The busy bar area at Graffiato. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Pine nuts and sauteed chanterelles top the corn agnolotti, which Tom Sietsema says is “among the finest pastas coming out of any kitchen.” Pair it with a glass of prosecco, available on tap. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

The minimalist decor at Graffiato. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Thanks to Isabella’s star turn on the reality TV series “Top Chef,” the restaurant has been mobbed since it opened in June. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

The gnocchi is arranged with braised pork and creamy burrata. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)

Graffiato featires concrete floors, brick walls, a skylight and an exhibition kitchen on each floor. (By Scott Suchman/For The Washington Post)