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Posted at 02:57 PM ET, 11/27/2012

Hanoi House replaces Blackbyrd Warehouse on 14th Street NW


Hanoi House’s crispy tofu pho, or pho chay, arrives in a deliciously spicy broth. (Fritz Hahn/The Post)
After years of making U Street a destination for cocktails, DJs and late-night dancing, Eric and Ian Hilton are moving in on the late-night dining market, too.

On Nov. 27, they officially unveiled Hanoi House, a stylish Vietnamese restaurant in the former Blackbyrd Warehouse space. This follows on the heels of Satellite Room, the dive-ish diner serving post-concert burgers and boozy milkshakes behind the 9:30 Club.

With red velvet curtains hanging over a black lacquered bar, rich black leather booths, gilded mirrors and mismatched retro lamps turned down low, Hanoi House has a sexy date-night-to-late night vibe. “It reminds me of ‘In the Mood for Love,’” a friend said, both nailing the atmosphere and reminding me I need to re-watch that classic Hong Kong love story soon.


The bar at Hanoi House (formerly Blackbyrd Warehouse), shot Nov. 26, 2012. (Fritz Hahn/The Post)
Of course, looks mean nothing if the food disappoints, but it doesn’t. The banh mi is the standout: cuts of chicken, beef or pork in a French baguette laden with pate, cilantro and enough jalapeno peppers to provide a generous kick. The shrimp garden rolls, loaded with scallions, were a level above the traditional pork spring rolls. Beef jerky bits elevated a tasty green papaya salad. And though I prefer meat in most dishes, the crispy tofu pho was slightly better than the beef version, thanks to a spicier broth.

Chef James Claudio, who’s also behind the menu at Marvin, looked to his grandmother, Lap Claudio, for inspiration for the menu. While she generally splits time between Vietnam and Florida, she has moved to the area for “an open ended period of time” to help get Hanoi House’s kitchen running, Ian Hilton explained.

Behind the bar, Brendan Murphy of the neighboring Gibson has crafted a short-and-sweet cocktail menu heavy on tea-based drinks: The Silk Road combines aged rum, coconut milk, black tea and a syrup of ginger, vanilla and tamarind. You have to stir it yourself – the ingredients have a tendency to separate – but it’s a rich, milky concoction that goes down smooth. I was also a fan of the Too Beaucoup, which is basically a sweeter take on a French 75 – the gin and champagne meet black tea, honey, vanilla and raspberry. It’s not overly sugary, though – there’s a good balance in the flavor. There are a half-dozen beers in bottles and cans, including the rare and very dry Japanese Yoho Aooni IPA.

This isn’t the Hilton duo’s first time peddling Vietnamese cuisine: Pho U, a pop-up Vietnamese restaurant run by Claudio and sous-chef Brendan L’Etoile, had a short stint at Montserrat House back in March; and we named the banh mi sandwich at Dickson Wine Bar one of the area’s best in our bahn mi throwdown last fall.

Hanoi House will be taking reservations for both dinner and late-night dining, keeping the kitchen open until 11 p.m. on weeknights and midnight on weekends. (Up to half of the seats will be saved for walk-in customers, Ian Hilton said.)

Hanoi House, 2005 14th St. NW. hanoihousedc.com. Open Monday-Friday at 5 p.m. and Saturday-Sunday at noon.

By  |  02:57 PM ET, 11/27/2012

Categories:  Restaurants

 
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