The Washington Post

Look away, vegetarians: Bryan Voltaggio’s Range fetes meat with “beef ice” and an entire menu of ham

(Video by Clubhill Media)

( Enlarge men )

The construction paper has come off the windows at chef Bryan Voltaggio’s Range, which held a walk-through and tasting at the Chevy Chase Pavilion on Monday.

It’s the most attractive hangar you’ve ever dined in. The 14,000-square-foot space was formerly a SteinMart, where customers roamed the aisles in search of hidden discount racks of denim and sweaters. Now it’s “Oh, hey, there’s a huge wood-burning hearth,” or “Yikes, that’s a lot of shrimp.” Such is Range’s, well, range, that I needed to ask for directions to the walk-in charcuterie closet.

In keeping with the expansive theme, Range’s menu could be described as sweeping. It is indeed — as Voltaggio told The Post’s Tim Carman — a celebration of meat.

Kimchi linguini with uni and bay scallops.

The cocktails at Owen Thomson’s 25-seat bar are all $11, whether you order the obliquely titled “The Name Says It All” (a vodka soda) or the “Vegan Sacrifice,” a spicy scotch-and-ginger-ale concoction on the rocks — except those rocks are made from “beef ice,” which a bartender identified as clarified veal stock. (There also are three bottles of Pappy Van Winkle’s behind the bar at present — but you won’t have a chance to order any until the restaurant opens to the public beginning with a Dec. 15 preview.)

This is what an $800 sous vide machine looks like.

Range occupies 14,000 square feet on the second level of the Chevy Chase Pavilion. (Enlarge image) (Photos by Alex Baldinger/The Washington Post)
Alex Baldinger is editor of the Going Out Guide blog, which covers food, drink, arts, music, events and other curiosities in the D.C. area. He is forever in search of a great sandwich.


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