When we first covered Sax on this blog, Justin Rude wrote that it would be hard to tell where it would fit in the dining scene, but that it would surely ”lead the field in sheer volume of mirrors, gold leaf and red velvet.” Tom Sietsema has more to say about the decor, the cabaret and the service in today’s Food section: “Factor in the ornate balcony seating and the cleavage-baring servers, and you could be in Las Vegas, Versailles, the Playboy mansion,” he writes. And the food at this over-the-top oasis? “Much of it is more refined than you might expect given everything that surrounds it,” he says, including the corn soup, scallop carpaccio and braised lamb.
Also in today’s Food section:
Design your own sushi at the carryout spot Oh Fish! — a new offering from chef Kazohiro “Kaz” Okochi, one of the city’s premier sushi makers.
Taylor Gourmet owners take their expert hired-gun baker to Philly to track down the perfect cheesesteak roll, one they plan to replicate for their forthcoming restaurant. “His assignment is tantamount to hiring Daniel Boulud to prepare Kraft mac ‘n’ cheese,” Tim Carman writes.
Find 10 new varieties of apples to try this season, and check out recipes to go with them.
Jason Wilson spends his summer vacation riffing on new variations of “the greatest cocktail,” the Manhattan.
In the Wine column, learn how large retail stores develop private-label wine stocks.