Mike Isabella’s G opens with big crowds, big sandwiches

Another week, another opening on 14th Street. This time, it's G, Mike Isabella's sandwich shop neighboring his weeks-old Kapnos. On G's first day, sandwich makers had their hands full, as the restaurant was swamped with guests looking to take advantage of a special $5-per-sandwich fundraiser for the American Cancer Society. (Washington City Paper's Jessica Sidman reports G sold out in two hours and closed shortly after 1 p.m. instead of 4 p.m. as planned.)


Isabella, second from left, was expediting orders through the kitchen on G's first day.  (Maura Judkis)

G's interior is reminiscent of Taylor Gourmet, in that exposed-brick-and-reclaimed-materials aesthetic that all new restaurants seem to be going for these days. There's plenty of seating, but if this weather holds over the weekend, you might prefer to take your sandwiches to Meridian Hill Park one block away.

As for those sandwiches, we tried the spicy mushroom panino ($10) and loved the oozy taleggio cheese. The wood roasted sandwiches, which take carvings from the whole animals that Isabella roasts for Kapnos, also won fans: Spiced baby goat ($13) is paired with harissa, lemon potatoes and oregano, and the spring lamb ($12) is a take on a gyro, with tzatziki and pickled onion. The other vegetarian option we tried, the roasted cauliflower ($8), was a three napkin proposition.


Spicy mushroom panino at G (Alex Baldinger)

Other classics on the menu include chicken parm, a meatball sub and an Italian hero, as well as a Cubano. Those looking for something lighter can opt for a roasted turkey or chicken salad sandwich, and those seeking something heavier can stop in for a breakfast "Jersey Mac" sandwich -- duck egg, house-made ham and muenster cheese on duck fat English muffins. There are eight veggie side dishes, including spiced beets, marinated kale, and olives, plus two soups and four salads. Cakes and pies for dessert are on display at the sandwich counter.

When G begins serving carryout sandwiches at night later next month, they'll be in direct competition with Fast Gourmet across the street. And beginning Aug. 3, G will serve an evenings-only tasting menu for $40 per diner. Until then, you can get G's sandwiches from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. (or while supplies last) at 2201 14th St. NW.


G (Maura Judkis)
Maura Judkis covers culture, food, and the arts for the Weekend section and Going Out Guide.
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