It’s taco time in Cabin John as Fish Taco formally opens

September 3, 2013
Chef Michael Harr at Food Wine & Co. in Bethesda. (Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)
Chef Michael Harr at Food, Wine & Co. in Bethesda. (Scott Suchman/For the Washington Post)

Following some rehearsal time to smooth out its kinks, Fish Taco officially opens today in Cabin John, says co-owner Michael Harr, who is also the executive chef at Food, Wine & Co. in Bethesda. Assisting him on the new project is Eddie Moran, who has also returned to the Bethesda restaurant where he previously cooked, as chef de cuisine under Harr.

“I like his flavors,” the boss says of his new-old employee’s cooking and Mexican heritage.

Perch, flounder, grouper, swordfish and mahi-mahi will be among the fried or grilled fish fillings at Fish Taco, which will also offer beef, chicken, pork and octopus tacos with jazzy house-made sauces. The menu will also feature salads, burritos and rice bowls, which customers can wash back with sangria or (frozen) margaritas.

Tacos come two to a plate ($9 to $12) with Mexican rice and black beans. A meatless taco brings together fried avocado, huitlacoche, cactus paddles and Mexican cheese.

Customers place their orders at the counter of Fish Taco, where they take a number and head for one of 30 seats to await their food. Wood paneling, bench seating and concrete floors underscore a casual look in the space previously occupied by Lucky Garden at 7945 MacArthur Boulevard.

Harr suggests there might be more refueling stations down the road: “Definitely we feel we could do another.”

Weaned on a beige buffet a la “Fargo” in Minnesota, Tom Sietsema is the food critic for The Washington Post. This is his second tour of duty at the Post. Sietsema got his first taste in the ‘80s, when he was hired by his predecessor to answer phones, write some, and test the bulk of the Food section’s recipes. That’s how he learned to clean squid, bake colonial cakes and distinguish between nutmeg and mace.
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Tom Sietsema · September 3, 2013