There are four components to khachapuri, a dish at the new Compass Rose near U Street: dough, cheese, a runny egg, and a huge pat of butter. Together, in the proper proportion, they combine to create a thing so wonderful it seems as if it only could have come from the mind of Liz Lemon. Basically, this is butter pizza. BUTTER PIZZA.
The $14 dish is actually a staple in the country of Georgia, where Compass Rose owners Rose Previte and her husband, NPR Morning Edition co-host David Greene, traveled when he was a foreign correspondent. The boat-shaped dough acts as a shallow bread bowl, all the better to hold in the cheese, organic egg and enormous pat of butter that are mixed tableside by your server. Tear off pieces of the pillowy crust to sop up the butter and yolk in the center.
To the probable detriment of my health, I have eaten this dish twice in five days. I could eat it again right now. I could nestle into a person-sized khachapuri as if it were a sleeping bag. Compass Rose, I beg you: Do not take this off of your menu, forever and ever, amen.
Compass Rose, 1346 T St. NW. 202-744-9307.