A custom-made maki roll from Oh Fish!. (By Fritz Hahn/The Washington Post)Chipotle-style sushi rolls? Sounds dangerous. But that’s the concept behind Kaz Okochi’s new casual counter-service restaurant downtown. The Kaz Sushi Bistro owner officially opened Oh Fish! Wednesday, and I took some fellow Gurus to check it out.

The ordering process in the slick wood- and stainless steel-bedecked space is simple: Grab a checklist-style menu and choose fillings for your custom maki roll. Protein choices include favorites like spicy tuna, as well as salmon and a vegetarian option. Follow that up with a few veggie fillings, a sauce and optional dry topping. Hand your sheet to a cashier, who will helpfully suggest sides and a drink (including fruit-infused iced green tea), and then wait for the small team of maki-rollers (with the help of an automatic rice-and-seaweed-binder and a roll-slicer) to complete your order.

The rolls are big. You can get them in 5- and 7-ounce sizes, and we all decided to stick with the slimmer version on return trips. Our 7-ounce rolls smothered the great flavors with too much rice. We were also interested in the restaurant’s pre-conceived rolls — or more precisely in their titles, like “Kira Kira (Sparkle: To glow with happiness and anticipation),” and “Doki Doki (Anticipation: The feeling before a first date.)”

Rolls run around $9-$10, which seems like a fair price for the glow of anticipation.