Alexander Wang’s Brooklyn presentation evoked a kind of urbane factory line: It was utilitarian, but also faintly robotic. Models stalked the stage in coats and punched-out leathers that were so sharp they were almost digital. The quintessential downtown woman has long looked to Wang, however, to deliver us the bag we will carry every day and the shoe that everyone will copy. So we couldn’t help look to the ground for inspiration. Will these kicks — let’s call them half-calfs, with a boot-like lick of leather in the front, and a mule in back — be the next must-have Wang accessory?
The Annapolis native and “Project Runway” success story offered a prim collection that was very nearly monochromatic, employing mostly black with hints of white, plum and one of the duskiest, most romantic shades of green we’ve seen. While some of the young designer’s gowns veered toward the dowdy, this shift, paired with a cat-eye and some fierce shoes, is something any woman would want to wear.
The party-wear veteran’s runway was filled with models who recalled gallery girls on their way home from a night at 1Oak. Their hair was a little messy, their eyeliner smudged and their bejeweled tights were certain to get them noticed.
Cornflower blue turned up on runway after runway, including those at Tibi and Rebecca Taylor on Saturday. This look at Tibi almost made us want to run out and snatch up as much cornflower as we could get our hands on before it becomes ubiquitous.
Jewels, saffron hues, ankle bells, interesting sarong-inspired angles and gathers of fabric made for a lovely tribute by Gurung to his Himalayan upbringing. It’s also a complete 180 from his spring show—a pastel-laden homage to ’50s Americana.