“Rome : A Cultural, Visual, and Personal History” by Robert Hughes

This sloppiness with facts is compounded by other copyediting malfeasances. For example, three times in 30 pages Hughes repeats that St. Helena shipped back from Jerusalem “the stairs which Christ was believed to have climbed in the palace of Pontius Pilate.” And he often interrupts the narrative for tirades of dubious relevance to his ostensible subject. “Today Islam’s fundamentalist descendants can invent nothing, preserve nothing, create nothing. Comparing them with the remarkable figures of their own history is like comparing some illiterate IRA kneecapper to Seamus Heaney or William Butler Yeats.”

All of this is a shame since at his best, as in the chapters on the Renaissance and the 17th century, Hughes can be brilliant. Always on sure ground when discussing art and architecture, he offers vivid evocations of Michelangelo, Raphael, Bernini, Caravaggio and their slightly less renowned contemporaries. Although he covers a lot of familiar ground and relies on well-known sources, he manages to make the material his own. Particularly his accounts of the construction of Rome’s aqueducts and the transfer of an Egyptian obelisk from the back to the front of St. Peter’s are masterpieces of muscular prose and telling details.

(Knopf) - ’Rome: A Cultural, Visual, and Personal History’ by Robert Hughes

Curiously, as he accelerates through the 20th and into the 21st century, he becomes error-prone again, and what a casual tourist can see for himself, Hughes seems blind to. Augustus’ tomb has for decades been surrounded by a fence that prevents passersby from desecrating it with trash, as Hughes claims. Piazza Barberini’s fountain has long been off-limits to parked cars, contrary to Hughes’s description. And to mislocate “the Villa Medici at the head of the Spanish Steps” is a disservice to readers who may not push on to its true position, the length of two football fields away.

But why quarrel when the sun in shining and I’m off to the Muro Torto to play tennis where, I’m grateful to learn from Hughes, there used to be a graveyard for prostitutes? Ecco Roma.

bookworld@washpost.com

Michael Mewshaw has lived in Rome off and on for 40 years. His most recent book is “Between Terror and Tourism: An Overland Journey Across North Africa.”

ROME

A Cultural, Visual, and Personal History

By Robert Hughes

Knopf. 498 pp. $35

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