A countertenor’s journey from busking on the Metro to Carnegie Hall

Bill O'Leary/WASHINGTON POST - Hisham Breedlove sings countertenor for tips in the Court House Metro station.

You don’t hear it when you step off the train, or after you’ve scaled the first batch of congested steps, or while you’re pushing through the swarm of commuters collecting at the Metro turnstiles.

It’s on the protracted escalator ride up — the stairs you sprint for exercise — that the faint warbling starts to sound more like melody. The hollow notes break the usual rumblings. The swooshing. The screeching. The “Hello, I’m Janet Napolitano, Secretary of . . . ” you know the rest. And when you hit the passage adorned with posters of a coy Brian Williams and a man offering you a plate of linguine, you remove your ear buds to hear an aria — opera, interrupting your morning Playlist.

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Countertenor Hisham Breedlove makes the Court House Metro station his stage. Having performed at Carnegie Hall, Breedlove now treats Metro riders every Friday as he works to complete his degree from Washington Adventist University in Takoma Park.

Countertenor Hisham Breedlove makes the Court House Metro station his stage. Having performed at Carnegie Hall, Breedlove now treats Metro riders every Friday as he works to complete his degree from Washington Adventist University in Takoma Park.

(Ricardo Cabrera) - Hisham Breedlove, center’ performs in the Washington Adventist University’s production of \"The Marriage of Figaro\" with Janice Torres and Eduardo Gonzalez. Discovered while singing in the Metro, Breedlove will graduate in the spring.

A thin, gangly man, just over 6 feet tall, stands at the intersection of four tunnels in the Court House metro. Commuters walk past him doing the same double take.

It’s a man? A grown man? Singing that high?

In the register of both woman and 10-year-old boy, Hisham Breedlove, 29, sings opera in Metro stations. A trained countertenor, he’s been practicing and honing his craft for almost a decade underground. Now, he makes Court House his primary stage. “It has the best acoustics,” says the man who’s tested many a station.

But on this brisk Friday morning in February, Breedlove — wearing fitted corduroys, a red windbreaker and a black backpack that looks heavier than he does — lays a colorful shawl and a few shiny quarters on the ground “to attract attention.” He takes a sip from his bottle of green tea, and begins belting Langston Hughes’s “Song to a Dark Virgin,” his voice carrying through the tunnels and reaching up to the Cosi on Clarendon Boulevard.

A woman dressed in a trench coat and slacks passes by and opens her purse.

No change.

“Next time,” she mouths to him. He bows and smiles back at her.

Charles Edwards, an older man in a panama hat and suspenders, walks by and hands Breedlove some bills. He stops for a moment.

“It’s haunting,” he says. Edwards is one of Breedlove’s newest regulars, having seen him at Court House for the past few weeks. “I can hear him for 30 seconds before I see him, when I start my walk toward the Metro.”

“I can’t help but stop and listen,” says Stephen Schwartz, who listened to Giovanni Battista Pergolesi’s “Se tu m’ami” before continuing his walk down the tunnel. “I’m such a fan of early music, and it’s so rare to hear opera, let alone a countertenor.”

The countertenor is a male singing voice that has the range of an alto or mezzo-soprano — parts most often sung by women. It’s a rare voice, and many scholars refuse to acknowledge it as its own voice type, because most men can access lower vocal registers, as well. Breedlove is a baritone who can also sing the male falsetto. To those who know opera, this Metro singer has a rare and well-trained gift. To those who don’t, he’s a man with a woman’s voice.

After one hour, Breedlove has earned around $70, solid tips for this illegal activity. “The Metro police are really kind,” he says. “They’ll come over and say, ‘I’m sorry but you can’t do that here.’ They’re nicer to me probably because I’m not causing a problem. I’m just singing ‘Panis Angelicus.’ ”

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