The Juicy Details

August 9, 2012

Station 4′s oysters come topped with onion-peach mignonette.

Even though fruits are obvious choices as dessert ingredients, they can work in savory foods, too. That’s why I was excited to try the six-course peach-tasting dinner menu ($38) that’s available at Station 4 (1101 4th St. SW, 202-488-0987) all month, in honor of National Peach Month.

As someone who loves stone fruits, I was hoping to be blown away by new, offbeat uses of peaches. I was let down.

In some cases, as with the oysters in an onion-peach mignonette, the fruit’s flavor was simply outsung by stronger tastes (in this case, vinegar and brine). In other instances, the peach seemed missing; the entree, Kurobuta pork tenderloin, had only a measly dab of peach chutney.

Peach lovers might do better to order their plates a la carte ($10 appetizers, $20 entrees) and focus on those that make the most of the fruit. I’d pick the foie gras with roasted peaches, which also happens to be one of chef Orlando Amaro’s favorites. It’s a generous triangle of seared foie gras with a golden brown exterior, served alongside a similarly sized slice of peach in warm, syrupy truffle jus.

All I could think as I ate the rich, fatty liver was, “This tastes like winter.” On the other hand, the saccharine peach screamed summer. Eaten in the same bite, this odd couple amounted to a guilty pleasure (too many calories, too much sugar and intensely flavorful). Has the peach finally found the right dinner companion?

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