Pork Dumplings: Here to Stay


Ever since Toki Underground’s Erik Bruner-Yang began previewing Maketto’s dishes at a pop-up at Hanoi House (2005 14th St. NW), most diners have had the same three questions: “When is Maketto opening?”; “How long will these dishes be available at Hanoi House?”; and, “Can I have another bite of your sour-pork dumpling?”
The first answer: Hopefully by the end of the year. The second: Through the end of September. And the third: Don’t even think about it.
Though the Southeast Asian-inspired menu — a collaboration between Bruner-Yang and chef de cuisine James Wozniuk — changes weekly, the pork dumplings (above) are likely to remain a constant. Rather than in traditional wrappers, the meat is stuffed in squid.
“It’s a popular dish in Cambodia,” says Wozniuk, who’s visited the country twice. “I watched people cook at the markets and took notes.” His includes ground pork mixed with garlic, chilies, salt and lemongrass stuffed into the body of a squid and topped with fish sauce, pounded chilies, lime juice, crispy garlic and shallots and cilantro.

Holley Simmons is the dining editor of Express. When she’s not reporting on local restaurants and tastemakers, you can find her sewing a dress from a 1950s pattern or planting a windowsill herb garden. Contact her at holley.simmons@washpost.com.
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