All Souls

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Editorial Review

The story: After years managing bars at Jose Andres’s Jaleo and Zaytinya, David Batista finally has a bar of his own. (Well, he still has a bit of the original Jaleo, too — that’s where All Souls’ copper-topped bar counter came from.) Chat with Batista, a tattooed presence behind the bar, and you’ll hear about his love of rosé wine and alternative and punk music, both of which show up at All Souls.

Why it stands out: There’s nothing spectacular about this simple room, which has about three-dozen seats. There’s generally a crowd in the large corner booth. The folks mingling at the bar are a mix of ages and races. The selections on the Internet jukebox have been edited so that you can’t pick Taylor Swift or Guns N’ Roses — think Joy Division, Run-DMC or the Replacements instead.

What to order: There are four draft beers (including Lagunitas and Heavy Seas), a few more bottles, a couple of wines (including two kinds of cava) and three basic cocktails ($9), labeled No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3. I’m partial to No. 2, the Perfect Manhattan; it mixes Maker’s 46 whiskey and Dolin dry vermouth, “because that’s how I make it at home,” Batista says. But the novelty boilermaker is the most intriguing: a shot of Maker’s Mark and a cocktail glass full of pink rosé. The sweet, wheated bourbon plays well with the bubbles, and it’s a good deal for $11.

-- Fritz Hahn (Jan. 16, 2014)