2009 Fall Dining Guide

By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, Oct. 18, 2009

The server at my favorite wine bar informs my posse that the menu of small plates is designed for sharing. But after the duck confit hits the table, I'm feeling selfish: The skin is so crisp it shatters, the flesh is rosy and succulent, and the nest of caraway-flecked cabbage slaw that serves as a little stage for the duck is good enough to merit separate billing. There are a lot of such moments at this appealing brick-and-wood trendsetter in Logan Circle. A turban of sweet roasted leeks gets an infusion of savor from buttery burrata cheese, braised celery, almonds and bacon; fried shrimp and calamari rock with pepper and lemon. With their well-crafted wine list, the owners reveal a passion for the grapes of France and Italy. Be sure to check out Cork's chalkboard, which lists a changing selection of interesting flights that let you compare several vintages or producers for not a lot of money. Coming up nearby: Cork Market, a source for wine, cheese, charcuterie, bread, salads and more. Sounds like a picnic to me.