The H Street Martini Lounge serves as a counterbalance to most of the H Street establishments, offering dozens of martinis in an upscale atmosphere without losing its neighborhood flavor. Exposed brick walls, cozy high-backed chairs in warm earth tones and a soundtrack of soul and R&B lend a classy vibe, reminding me of the old Juste Lounge. And that's before I started perusing the list of more than 54 martinis, from such classics as the French martini and the Lemon Drop to a whole candy store's worth of sweet, fruity drinks made with flavored rums and crafted to taste like Jolly Ranchers and German chocolate cake. The bartenders have their own specialties, too, so don't be afraid to ask. The Nishatini, made with citrus vodka, pineapple liqueur and pineapple juice, is a winner.

Every Wednesday, free hand dancing lessons are offered on the smooth hardwood floorboards upstairs, where jazz and R&B bands play Thursday and Friday nights. (Unfortunately, the room is too small to allow for much dancing once it gets busy.)

-- Fritz Hahn (Sept. 7, 2006)