St. Arnold's of Cleveland Park

St. Arnold's of Cleveland Park photo

Editorial Review

At St. Arnold's, mussels make strong option
By Alex Baldinger
Friday, June 22, 2012

With au courant sandwich chains Pret a Manger and Paul multiplying in this grab-and-go city, the thought of a steaming pot of mussels for lunch can seem especially foreign. But a visit to St. Arnold’s Mussel Bar shows the Franco-Belgian indulgence is within the lunch hour’s grasp.

The subterranean space on quiet Jefferson Place NW south of Dupont Circle features 20 mussels preparations, from a classic mariniere version to a Mexican iteration served in a sauce spiked with jalapeno peppers, onions and cilantro.

The house specialty, Mussels St. Arnold’s, arrives in a house-made beer broth laced with caramelized shallots, garlic, thyme and duck fat. Each order comes with a side of Belgian frites and bread for dipping. It’s a hearty entree that’s well worth the $18.

So where did the idea for a Belgian-themed basement bar, named for St. Arnold of Soissons, the patron saint of hop-pickers, originate? “We were looking for something different than a jukebox on the wall and wings,” said Mark Moore, one of the restaurant’s four operating partners, who opened the space in late 2010. “So what would be better than having people surrounded by mussel pots and having some really good beers?”

No establishment named for the abbot quoted as saying, “From man’s sweat and God’s love, beer came into the world,” would make sense without a predominantly Belgian beer list. Labels like Kasteel Rouge, Houblon Chouffe and Affligem Blonde pre­­-dom­inate (you might want to save these 6.7- to 9-percent ABV beers for after work). You won’t find the ubiquitous Stella Artois or Hoegaarden.

“We want to be able to educate [patrons] about beer, and I want to be educated by the guest,” Moore said. “I feel that Belgian beer is where red wine was 15 years ago. The curve is rising.”

The same could be said of St. Arnold’s, which added its Connecticut Avenue location in Cleveland Park a little more than a year after the Jefferson Place restaurant opened. The feel of the airy, sidewalk space (formerly Sabores) is a sharp contrast with the admittedly undersized quality of its sub-sidewalk predecessor.

At both locations, the menu features more than mussels. Fans of Belgian cuisine will be especially pleased to find Flemish waterzooi -- a cream-based stew of chicken and vegetables -- served either in a large bowl or atop a freshly pressed waffle ($13). “It’s like a Belgian version of chicken and waffles,” my server explained.

The Peter and Paul sandwich ($10), with ham, sweet butter and cornichons on a baguette, is a take on the working-class jambon-beurre sandwich.

Although Moore downplayed his desire to specialize in burgers, the one served here ($11) is commendable, stuffed with cheese (go for Gruyere) and topped with a choice of bacon, prosciutto, mushrooms, peppers and onions.

A meal ends with a fluffy waffle topped with fruit, powdered sugar and whipped cream ($7-$9).

As if opening two restaurants in eight months wasn’t enough, Moore and his partners also opened the Underground at St. Arnold’s, an English pub-style bar with a London-transit system theme below the Cleveland Park location. But don’t grow too attached: Moore said he’s planning to reformat the space as St. Arnold’s the Abbey, to unify the operation’s total focus on Belgian beers, by mid-August.