By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, Oct. 18, 2009

The best cone in the city? My vote goes not to that pricey gelateria in Logan Circle but to the Source, next to the Newseum. That's where chef Scott Drewno and his crew fill fragile, faintly sweet cones of sesame and miso with minced tuna tartare and a dusting of shaved bonito. If my job didn't require me to cover the entire menu, I'd order the beautiful snack as my appetizer, entree and dessert. That's not to say there aren't other compelling things to try in this cool, airy (and loud) second-floor dining room. Someone at the table should order the sort-of-spicy, kind-of-sweet stir-fried lamb, crisp with squiggly rice sticks, neatly served in saucer-size lettuce "cups." Come to think of it, I'm also partial to the halibut, jazzed up with red curry and resting on a fruity and fiery base of pineapple and chilies. Spoonfuls of a rich uni-and-lobster sauce are poured around the fish at the table, gilding the entree. The restaurant's pan-Asian concept comes courtesy of California boss Wolfgang Puck, yet the plate manages to feel personal rather than corporate. Fueling that notion: hosts who always look glad to see you and bartenders who shake and stir some of the best libations around.

Fixed-price lunch menu per person: three courses $25. Fixed-price dinner menu per person: seven courses $125.

The Scene: Wolfgang Puck's new restaurant at the Newseum gives its first floor over to an airy lounge with plenty of wines by the glass, a few draft beers and a dozen cocktails divided into "Classics" and "Specialty" categories. It's already a popular destination for happy hour groups, business meetings and dates.

What Works: The Classics section is especially strong. A Sazerac is made with Sazerac rye whiskey, the pungent herbsaint liquor and old-school Peychaud bitters. The Sidecar strikes the right balance between tart sour mix (made in-house) and soft Martell cognac. The modern side is serviceable -- a mojito muddled with ginger, a gin martini muddled with cucumber -- but the Peach Creek, which finds Knob Creek bourbon shaken with white peach puree and topped with fresh ginger, is crisp and sweet. Service is quick and polite, and the bartenders are fairly exacting.

What Doesn't: The "Specialty" section includes a Flirtini, which makes me instantly deduct 20 points from my review. (Maybe if it was 1998 and I was dating Carrie Bradshaw, I wouldn't mind.) Actually, most of my problems with the Source have nothing to do with what's in my glass. The tables nearest to the bar are really, really low. If you have to sit on one of the stools, you look like you're squatting on the floor. The soundtrack -- Fleetwood Mac, the Rolling Stones, Led Zeppelin -- seems out of place in such a modern (and ostensibly hip) setting. Also, the three televisions behind the bar aren't angled towards the ground, leading to less-than-optimum viewing from the barstools.

The Cost: Everything is $12.

Tip: Can't get a reservation at the restaurant? The full menu is available at the bar.

-- Fritz Hahn (November 2007)