2009 Fall Dining Guide

By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, Oct. 18, 2009

The menu highlights bistro dishes you've seen before -- hanger steak, roast chicken -- but they taste different coming from Joe Palma. Indeed, they taste superior to much of what's out there. The chef's rack of lamb is rosy and meaty, his casserole of vegetables sings of the season, and the warm cornmeal madeleines with their faint crisp edges and vanilla perfume would make Proust smile. Keep in mind that Palma toiled at star chef Eric Ripert's revered Manhattan seafood temple, Le Bernardin, before coming to this hotel property last fall. The protege's fish dishes -- foremost a small turban of diced snapper tossed with coconut milk and lime, and crowned with tiles of sheer tomato -- verge on the masterful. A glitch here and there, such as steak tartare so strongly seasoned it masks the flavor of the raw beef, are easily overlooked given the abundant success stories. Food isn't the only draw. Westend's bar is modern and adult, its dining room amber-lighted and cozy, save for the acoustics at prime time. Ripert should be pleased.

Bar Review

The Scene: Acclaimed French chef Eric Ripert -- winner of three Michelin stars and four New York Times stars for his New York restaurant Le Bernardin -- is the man behind the Ritz Carlton's new restaurant and lounge. The handsome room features a elliptical marble bar glowing with flickering candles, warm amber panels separating the lounge from the dining room. Even with the large plate glass windows, it's quite a cozy room, and would be perfect for a date.

What Works: Everything we tried left us wanting more. The Bourbonesque blends Makers Mark, freshly muddled strawberries and maple syrup in near-perfect harmony, with the syrup providing a base for the rich bourbon notes and kiss of strawberries to shine. The "Ripert" Favorite mixes aged reposado tequila with pomegranate and tangerine for a perfect mix of summery flavors. The Apple Brandy Sour punches up Calvados with fresh lemon juice, bitters and a sugary rim, making for a pleasantly tart aperitif. Wine lovers will find plenty to enjoy, with a large by-the-glass list and many bottles under $50. As in France, carafes of the house wine are incredibly affordable: $14 for a half-liter of red, white or rose.

What Doesn't: Those windows let in a lot of ambient light. Also, the menu desperately could have used a copy editor. "Rhethoric?" "Lois XIII" cognac?

The Cost: Cocktails are $12 or $13, glasses of wine are generally in the $8 to $11 range.

Tip: The bar fills with diners waiting for tables at peak times; If you're just going for drinks, you may have to stand for a bit. Also, some tables in the lounge area are available for walk-ins, but they're mostly for two.

-- Fritz Hahn (November 2007)