Best summer salads photo
(Marvin Joseph/The Washington Post)

Best summer salads

Tom Sietsema  |  Updated 07/25/2012

Salads and summer go together like movies and popcorn. But why settle for a plain toss of greens when a world of alternatives beckon? Over the past month or so, I've traversed the globe without leaving Washington, simply by ordering salads. My staycation took me to faraway places for a song: No getaway cost more than $14.

 
 
 
 
 

Lincoln

Washington, DC

Along with the hamburger President Obama ordered when he dropped by Lincoln downtown in June, he followed the waiter's suggestion and fit in the signature kale salad ($10). "Michelle wanted me to eat something healthy today," he told his table mates. Tossed with hazelnuts, shredded Parmesan and a sunny lemon vinaigrette, the dark greens are sprinkled in late summer with (house-dried) blueberries from owner Alan Popovsky's native New Jersey. Proving the power of POTUS: A 65 percent increase in the number of kale salads sold following his visit. Lincoln has one worker assigned to the task of keeping up with the demand, up to 700 kale salads a week.

 
 
 
 
 

Oyamel

Washington, DC

In its beginning, the Mexican-themed Oyamel used canned hearts of palm in the salad named for the cream-colored stalk, ensalada de palmitos ($10). Two years ago, the Penn Quarter vision of Jose Andres switched to the fresh variety after the owner of Hamakua Farms in Hawaii reached out to him. "It's a totally different salad" now, says Oyamel's head chef, Omar Rodriguez. The texture of fresh hearts of palm provides a pleasant crunch; the flavor of what's sometimes called "swamp cabbage" is subtly sweet. Flown in once a week, the palm hearts are cut into very thin strips, and arranged in a swirl over orange and grapefruit segments, along with crisp radishes and creamy avocado. Adding spunk to the fun: a tamarind dressing sweetened with a touch of honey.

 
 
 
 
 

Central Michel Richard

Washington, DC

When he left France to work for Michel Richard 11 years ago, David Deshaies, now the top toque's corporate chef, says he fell in love with Caesar salads. No wonder the goat cheese Caesar salad ($14) at Central Michel Richard downtown tickles the protege. Like every dish his master dreams up, this one is staged with a flourish. The base is a pretty hedge of romaine hearts that have been swabbed with a tangy paste of goat cheese and olive oil. A tart Caesar dressing, a sprinkling of diced tomatoes and a see-through crouton complete the pale green forest: art you can eat.

 
 
 
 
 

Ethiopic

Washington, DC

One of my favorite ways to begin a meal at Ethiopic in the Atlas District is with a plate of what looks like scrambled eggs. In reality, the chilled salad, butcha ($5), stars brilliant-yellow pureed chickpeas. Part of an Ethiopian Orthodox religious observance, the "fasting egg" picks up heat with vinegar and jalapeno and sparkle with lemon juice. A roll of injera, the slightly sour pancake, plays the role of a fork in getting the salad from plate to (smiling) mouth.

 
 
 
 
 

Banana Leaves

Washington, DC

The epic menu at the pan-Asian Banana Leaves in Dupont Circle tempts me to order something different every time I check into the two-story neighborhood gem. Knowing the principal cooks are Malaysian, however, I can't resist repeating my request for their tropical salad ($6.95). It's a jungle of flavors --- shredded mango, papaya, carrots, cucumbers and cabbage --- invigorated with a dressing fueled with lime and garlic. If you live within a three-mile reach, you can enjoy the dish in the comfort of home: For a $15 minimum, the restaurant delivers.

 
 
 
 
 

701

Washington, DC

Watermelon and feta have a refreshing affinity for one another, which is one reason the fruit and the cheese are matched so often. But I agree with 701's chef , Ed Witt, who says he's had some "pretty terrible" combinations. His version of watermelon salad ($11) is at the top of the class. The eyes are seduced first. Cubes of pink and gold watermelon, topped with arugula and surrounded by cheese crumbles glistening with olive oil, are hard to resist in a swelter. Witt lends extra dash with pickled mustard seeds and a tiny trail of dried black olive --- fine foils to the sweet fruit.

 

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