The Washington Post
Critic rating
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Neighborhood: Downtown
Cuisine: Indian
Price: $$ ($15-$24)
Sound check: 78 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)
Veteran chef Nilesh Singhvi's sublime cooking puts diners in a New Delhi state of mind.
Our Review

2012 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 21, 2012

Fussing servers, coffered ceilings, slow-moving fans — the eldest of six restaurants in the empire of Ashok Bajaj puts diners in a New Delhi state of mind. The scene, set to piano music at dinner, is regal; the cooking, from veteran chef Nilesh Singhvi, is sublime. If you like spice, head for tender duck kebab, pulsing with ginger and chilies. Tamer options include a samosa that breaks open to a center that’s meaty with mushrooms and corn. Scallops cut like custard and come with tomato chutney that excites the taste buds, while lentils with tamarind and curry leaves make a good excuse to order another basket of Indian breads, some of the best anywhere. Could the lamb vindaloo be hotter? Yes, please. Those who dislike decisions should head for one of three thalis. Each multiple choice gathers colorful dishes on a showy silver platter that makes you the envy of the table when it’s delivered. This Indian addict would order the $20 vegetarian collection just for its intense spinach and lemon-nut rice.

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