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Neighborhood: Adams Morgan
Cuisine: American
Price: $$$ ($25-$34)
Sound check: 73 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)
Opened in 1995, the softly lighted Adams Morgan destination is a sublime example of how a restaurant can mature with grace.
Our Review

2012 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 21, 2012

Beef stew brightened with lemony spaetzle, cornmeal-crusted banana peppers stuffed with ricotta cheese, a chocolate tart with lashings of caramel and a crackle of sea salt ... the food at this Adams Morgan stalwart is what I’d want to make at home if I weren’t having dinner in a restaurant every night. “Summer on a plate!” a genial server announces an appetizer of three colors of juicy tomato, threads of fresh basil and superb mozzarella. Oh, the dining room is showing its years, but the tunes and hospitality help forgive signs of wear and tear. This is a kitchen that does every season proud, and while John Manolatos nails almost every cuisine he serves -- try his light tempura or zesty gumbo sometime -- the chef’s Greek is always great. First dish among equals is crisp-soft shredded goat alongside cocorubio beans spiked with jalapeno and served with fluffy grilled pita plus yogurt, natch. To keep chefs guessing, I often leave some food on my plate. Given that goat, I must have scraped a centimeter off the china.

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