Critic rating
(Good)
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Neighborhood: Adams Morgan
Cuisine: American
Price: $$$ ($25-$34)
Sound check: 72 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)
Our Review

Signs of the times in Adams Morgan: Cashion’s Eat Place has replaced its bread and butter with lavash and tahini, and recast its menu to showcase small plates. Do I miss ordering an appetizer followed by an entree and dessert? Sure, but the new format, seven categories long, dangles all sorts of enticements in my face. “Raw” yields a ginger-and lime-shocked cobia seviche (with fish cut to look like tapioca pearls), and “Meat” sometimes finds a couple of lamb meatballs in a tomato sauce so tantalizing you erase every trace before you let it go. Chef John Manolatos, could you please start selling the pleasure by the jar? His list of vegetable choices is one of the longest and strongest; the short season for squash blossoms saw me grazing on them as a delicate tempura with anchovy-laced mayonnaise. Pastas are a strong suit, and so is the service, which lets you try tastes of different wines before committing to one. Mostly mouthwatering, the food comes in a dated package, 19 going on 20 — and looking it.

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