Critic rating
(Good)
Neighborhood: Palisades
Cuisine: Belgian, French
Price: $$ ($15-$24)
Sound check: 88 decibels (Extremely loud)
Tender mussels and golden fries aren’t the only draw. This lively bistro addresses a pressing need on the scene: neighborhood restaurants that you could see yourself in, often.
Our Review

2013 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
October 10, 2013

Dinner at this snug Belgian restaurant in the Palisades always makes me wish I lived closer. Every neighborhood deserves an Et Voila!, a source of steamed mussels and beer-based beef stew that is priced for regular workdays but could just as easily host a celebration.

This is the rare restaurant where, recently at least, appetizers take a back seat to main courses. (Warm pea soup in summer? Tuna tartare still?) That said, I love the all-white, crisp and sharp salad of chopped endive, diced apple and blue cheese. Lobster risotto is beautiful and luscious; crisp-skinned branzino comes with fresh ricotta gnocchi; and duck confit with pureed potatoes puts me in a Paris state of mind.

So do the desserts, which include very good profiteroles and a cloud of meringue on a pool of vanilla custard -- an ile flottante that floats my boat.

More about this restaurant
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