Critic rating
Neighborhood: Dupont Circle
Cuisine: Greek
Price: $$$$ ($35 and up)
Sound check: 74 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)
Luxury dining isn’t dead, much of it is just different than what it used to be. Take Komi, the temple of modern Greek cooking presided over by Washington’s most guarded chef, Johnny Monis.
Our Review

2013 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
October 10, 2013

Komi requires its audience to trust it. There's no menu to choose from and your waiter doesn't offer much more of a forecast than this: The meal will segue from light to heavy, from fish to meat. "Ready?" he asks.

I'm always open to eating whatever Johnny Monis wants me to eat, be it a single scallop capped with a coin of persimmon, great raw fish from Tokyo, rabbit pate on sourdough toast or a single (and perfect) raviolo stuffed with earthy blood sausage. What links the many courses at this modern Greek restaurant is a reverence for great ingredients and superb taste.

Monis was honored for as much with the Mid-Atlantic Best Chef award from the James Beard Foundation this year. His extraordinary food is staged in a Spartan yellow room by servers who weave warmth with wit. A bottle of Arneis comes with a quip. "Little rascal," a server translates the Italian into English. When the accompaniments to a main course of crisp baby goat -- pickled peppers, puffy pita, thick yogurt -- run low, the waiter asks if we want "reinforcements."

Komi isn't inexpensive. But neither is a first-class ticket to Greece.

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