Critic rating
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Neighborhood: Baltimore
Cuisine: American
Price: $$$ ($25-$34)
Sound check: 74 decibels (Must speak with raised voice)
The food from chef Spike Gjerde sounds tempting in print and tastes like Chez Panisse in reality.
Our Review

2013 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
October 10, 2013

The best restaurant in Baltimore gets to that lofty place by not just meeting, but exceeding, expectations from year to year. A lot of kitchens make oyster stew, but Woodberry's sherry-laced bowlful goes down more memorably than most, thanks to fish pepper powder, pedigreed cream and adorable house-baked crackers. Once relegated to mornings and homes, trendy toast slathered with a blend of ricotta and goat cheese and heaped with roasted peppers makes a fashion statement at dinner. Served with blue ribbon-worthy corn on the cob, barbecued chicken gets its kick and caramel sheen from a dip in mayonnaise and apple cider. My server's enthusiasm for something as simple as Baltimore County cantaloupe sprinkled with sea salt leads me to a few wedges of summer on a plate. There's pie for dessert, and you should get a slice of whatever is in season with a scoop of something creamy and dreamy.

Rustic in brick and stacks of oak (for the wood-fired oven), Woodberry Kitchen leaves few details unattended. The cocktails are top-shelf, and the wine list a treasure. Where does the restaurant find such attractive -- and better yet, polished -- dining room attendants? From the looks of it, Abercrombie & Fitch.

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