At Ballston's 1Gen, The Heat Is On

By Julia Beizer
Special to The Washington Post
Friday, April 10, 2009

At a glance: With its towering condo buildings and stop-go traffic, Ballston isn't exactly known for its serenity. But 1Gen Thai Cuisine at Ballston Point is doing its best to be an oasis amid the bustle. Gauzy curtains block out the unsightly view of North Glebe Road so diners can focus on the restaurant's simple food and friendly service. Dark wood tables and chairs, soft lighting and a few purple-tinged murals dot the pre-fab space. Romance doesn't spring to mind at 1Gen, but it's a great, quiet spot for a lunch break or to enjoy a meal after a skating session at the Kettler Capitals Iceplex.

On the menu: The heat's the thing at this Thai restaurant. What changes is the way in which the searing flavors are applied. Sometimes, the chilies creep up on you as they do in the cashew chicken. The dish is mild at first taste but will have you reaching for your water glass or a bite of cooling bell pepper by the end.

"Spicy?" our waitress asks when we order the drunken noodles. "Yes, please," we reply. That may have been a mistake. The entree presents a problem well known to lovers of fiery fare: The food is so good you keep eating, but it's so spicy that your eyes water and nose sniffles. Curries prove to be reliable entrees. The nutty panang dish left me wishing for more rice with which to slurp the sauce. Sensitive to scorch? Ask the wait staff to turn down the heat.

The menu features a section dubbed "Nouveau Thai," which, according to manager Eka Morn, just means that these items combine traditional Thai preparation with elements from other cuisines. The most successful is the 1Gen Thai BBQ dish, which is essentially a mixed-grill platter by way of Bangkok.

The best dishes on the appetizer menu are those that offer a bit of the unexpected. Fresh is the word that comes to mind when munching on the combination of mango, lettuce, carrots and avocado packed into the garden rolls. The thick peanut dipping sauce is a nice antidote to the crunchy, healthful-tasting dish. In the duck roll, scallion and cucumber slices are a sharp contrast to the rich sauce and roasted bird. Spicy mini crab cakes come with the restaurant's house-made Thai chili sauce.

Bite through a crisp spring-roll-type shell to find warm, softened bananas in the crispy fried banana dessert. A delicious study in contrasts, the dish comes with vanilla ice cream.

At your service: The wait staff remembers regulars and rewards them with ear-to-ear smiles and friendly chitchat. The staff brings extra plates for diners who like to share and (thankfully) keeps water glasses filled.

What to avoid: Some dishes on the menu come out boring. Pad Thai is light on sauce and generally forgettable. A lemon wedge and quartet of chili-tinged condiments brighten up the dish somewhat, but not enough to enliven all the noodles. The duck curry wasn't as good as I had hoped; choose chicken, beef, seafood or tofu and veggies and save a few dollars. The crispy crab drumstick appetizer sounds fascinating (crab-chicken-and-mushroom filling stuffed into a chicken wing), but what arrives at the table is essentially just an hors d'oeuvre with an identity crisis. Crab is good. Chicken is good. The combination? Kind of strange. Regardless, it goes down easy enough with a dose of the chili sauce.

Wet your whistle: A slew of the usual sticky-sweet Thai cocktails are available here. The restaurant's My Thai, pina colada and 1Gen Volcano Punch (essentially a fizzy, citrusy version of the My Thai) are some of the most satisfying. Singha beers, sakes, wines and martinis featuring various fruits are also available.

Bottom Line: Thrill-seekers should keep 1Gen in mind for spicy dishes and fresh, affordable appetizers. The wait staff will make you feel right at home.