Amsterdam Falafelshop

At the trim Amsterdam Falafel, the Middle Eastern snack of mashed chickpeas, shaped into balls and fried to a neat crunch, gets slipped into warm pita pockets and dressed up with a choice of nearly 20 toppings. Picture shredded beets, turmeric-tinged cabbage, green herb sauce and eggplant puree -- everything arranged in a colorful salad bar and yours for the garnishing. That said, the fluffy-centered fritters are scrumptious on their own, liberally seasoned with garlic, cumin, parsley and coriander. As friendly as the guys behind the counter are the hours of operation: This Adams Morgan newcomer is open daily for lunch and dinner, and until 4 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights.

-- Tom Sietsema (Dec. 26, 2004)