Tom Sietsema wrote about Arisu for a June 2009 First Bite column.

City dwellers who enjoy Korean cooking but don't want to trek to Annandale, the area's best source, for their kimchi fix got lucky when Arisu opened in November in Georgetown. Though the restaurant replaced a popular Indian outpost, Curry Club, it also helped fill a need in the District, where there are only a handful of places to eat bulgogi or bibimbap.

Reached via a small bar, the second-floor dining room retains the intimacy of its predecessor. Arisu's 30 seats are set close together, but red and purple pillows add a bit of comfort and style to the banquettes hugging the burnt-orange walls. Further, the background music is played at a level that allows you to hear your dining companions sing the praises of the food in front of them.

A faceful of steam accompanies a stew of kimchi, tofu and sliced pork; its bubbling, brick-red broth is fiery but also tangy. Lean shredded beef is bundled into crisp lettuce leaves or saucer-size rounds of sliced radish (you choose) for a satisfying bulgogi. However, the selection of gratis little salads, or panchan, is restrained in comparison with the suburban competition's. At a recent dinner, we got just three items (kimchi, marinated bean sprouts and sliced omelet).

Like a number of Korean restaurants, this one feels compelled to serve a few Japanese dishes. Shrimp tempura is light and crunchy. A better introduction comes by way of the chicken-and-pork-filled pot stickers, or gyoza.

Owners Woon Yong Lim and his wife, Younghee, named their retreat using the old Korean word for the Han River, which flows through Seoul.

Although they've been in business for almost eight months, they only recently declared an official grand opening. With the celebration comes the news that their small menu has expanded to include a seafood pancake, sauteed pork belly and spicy chicken -- even more reasons to toast the Korean newcomer.

Entrees, $10.95-$22.95.

(June 24, 2009)