Editors' pick

Bar Charley

$$$$ ($15-$24)

Editorial Review

Early look

Bar Charley’s cheap thrills

The cocktails are thrilling, but the kitchen could polish some of the dishes.

Bar preview

Bar Charley, the new bar from the team behind Jackie’s, Sidebar and El Chucho, opens at 1825 18th St. NW on Thursday, Sept. 5. Brace yourself for sticker shock.

Classic mai tai and Suffering Bastard cocktails will flow from the taps into colorful ceramic glasses. The price? $7 each. A section of rotating classic cocktails, including a Sazerac, an Old Fashioned and a Jack Rose, will set you back $8. There are other deals sprinkled throughout the menu, including a sweet and satisfying version of the classic Orange Crush, made with house-infused orange vodka and fresh-squeezed orange juice, for $8.

“I’m tired of spending $12-$13 on a cocktail at bars no matter what, whether the person making it knows what they’re doing or not,” explains co-owner Gordon Banks, the cocktail expert behind the drinks at Bar Charley and its sister restaurants.

So when he was designing the menu at Bar Charley, a bar and dining room carved out of the lower levels of two adjoining townhouses, he decided that the drink options would hit multiple price points without skimping on quality spirits.

“This is stuff we [the owners] want to drink,” Banks says. “We love having fun with [bizarre] fancy cocktails, but an Orange Crush in Ocean City is one of the best drinks you can have.”

He chose to put two tiki drinks on tap because “I love tiki drinks. I love drinking out of tiki mugs – especially on the patio.” At the same time, some tiki drinks call for a lot of ingredients, which can really slow-down bar staff on a busy night. If drinks are mixed beforehand, Banks says, it’s easier to serve them.

That said, Banks loves a high-concept drink. He’s planning to serve a daiquiri inside a hollow, fist-sized piece of ice carved to resemble a coconut. Guests can choose to stick a straw in the ice and drink it that way, or “crack” the ice, as they would the shell of a coconut, and pour the cocktail into a tumbler over the ice.

His “Rickey” consists of carbonated Old Tom gin poured over a single cylinder of “sweet lime ice” that’s as long as its chimney shaped glass is tall. A first sip brings a lot of gin flavor. As the ice melts, it diffuses into the glass. By the end, it almost tastes like a daiquiri.

For the bar’s pickleback, a shot of rye whiskey will be served in a “cup” made of pickle-flavored agar-agar, a gelatin-like solid. You’re supposed to take the shot, and then eat the vessel. (I think this is something you’ll have to see first-hand.)

The menu item that should create the biggest show, though, is called the Stepdad. It involves spraying a plank of cedar wood with a butane torch and capturing the smoke in a upside-down tumbler. He then adds cognac for a caramel flavor, house-made pipe tobacco bitters and an ice cube made of black tea. The result finds the sweetness of cognac balanced by a bitter finish and a lingering smokiness that’s Scotch-like.

Novelty drinks may be fun, but there’s far more on the menu. Banks is planning a seasonal “history lesson” that focuses on the evolution of a single cocktail. The gin martini is up first: Among the 16 variations are the classic version (a two-to-one ratio of gin to vermouth) and the Perfect Martini, which uses equal parts of sweet and dry vermouth. There’s the Hi Ho, a classic 1920 recipe that swaps the vermouth for white port, and the World War I-era Allies cocktail, which combines English gin and French vermouth with kummel, a Russian liqueur made from caraway seeds, to represent the allies who fought on the same side during the Great War.

In terms of beer, Banks envisions three taps – one light, one bitter, one local – and then 15 to 20 different farmhouse ales, including a number of wild ales. “Rather than have one IPA, one sour beer, one pilsner … we’ll have a small list of things that I’m into,” he says.

The space itself, formerly home to the Cajun Experience, has been transformed into a low-key spot with a communal table, exposed brick walls and fancy chandeliers. I’m betting an enormous booth in the bay window, which can easily hold a group of six to eight, will be a popular gathering spot for birthdays. A back patio with room for about 30 people will open within a few weeks. In the meantime, the cowhide-topped stools lining the walls look like a good place to settle in, no matter your price point.

-- Fritz Hahn (Aug. 30, 2013)

Early look

First Bite: Bar Charley in Dupont Circle
By Tom Sietsema
September 24, 2013

The question Jackie Greenbaum says that she and Gordon Banks wanted to answer with their latest contribution to the dining scene was: What do we want to eat when we go out?

Bar Charley in Dupont Circle offers all of the above, and more, for surprisingly little. A quartet of steamed shrimp and pork belly dumplings goes for a mere $6, for instance, while a Sazerac fan probably will do a double-take when he spots the classic being poured for $8.

The successor to Cajun Experience, Bar Charley flashes Banks's middle name and marks the second watering hole in the city for the restaurateurs, who jointly own El Chucho in Columbia Heights. (Separately, Greenbaum co-owns Jackie's and Sidebar in Silver Spring.) Kudos to designer Mick Mier for the dashing interior, outfitted with old chandeliers and panels of peacock-patterned wallpaper.

The menu, created by former Jackie’s chef Diana Davila-Boldin and now in the hands of former Redwood chef LaMont Mitchell, is all over the map. Just about every appetite gets addressed. Seafood? Go for the lobster roll, flanked with thick potato chips fried right here. Meat? Consider a neat sloppy Joe. Among the salads, carrots and lentils tossed with almonds and bacon catch my interest. Smoked chicken thigh on dirty rice makes me happy to camp in this cozy roost, too.

The caveat to this deal of a meal: the din that comes with a full house in the low-ceilinged, 65-seat bar and dining room. Bar Charley proved so noisy on opening night, admits Greenbaum, she had to step outside to escape the pain. By the time you read this, however, a solution is expected to muffle the problem: The brown fabric on the ceiling disguises sound absorbers.

Bar plates, $5 to $18; entrees for two, $32 to $48.

Early look

Bar Charley’s cheap thrills

The cocktails are thrilling, but the kitchen could polish some of the dishes.