Editors' pick

Blue and White Carryout

American
$$$$ ($14 and under)
'

Editorial Review

For more than 40 years, this itty-bitty carryout has been dishing out huge portions of good ol' soul food. The worn counters and a narrow passageway can't dim customers' enthusiasm for the food and lively banter within.

First-timers are drawn in by the recommendation of co-workers, curiosity about the frequent lines outside, or the wafting aroma of fried chicken. "What gets you is that it's a hole-in-the-wall and you don't expect it to be so good," said Al Rollins, a commuter who finally stopped in a year ago and is now a devotee.

Known for: Fried chicken, which starts heading out the door by 6 a.m. The hamburger steak - more like a mini-meatloaf - is fresh-ground, elongated and thick. Tuesday specials include lima bean soup and liver.

All menu items are less than $5, including hefty dinner combos that include a choice of two Southern sides.

Tip: Set aside your images of fast food. A chicken sandwich here is a fist-size deep-fried piece, bone and all, nestled between two pieces of white bread.

Ann Cameron Siegal, June 2010