Clifford King has been feuding with the county over licensing for his mobile rib wagon for nearly two decades. And during that time, C. King's Best Ribs and Mobile Catering has become something of a fixture along Route 1 between Beltsville and Laurel, but not always in the same place. The rib wagon is a Step Van type with a smoker rigged on the back end. Just the smell is intoxicating. King doesn't serve pulled pork, but his meaty ribs ($15 a slab), basted in a sweet but spicy sauce, continue to attract loyal customers. He doesn't serve potato salad, and his baked beans are not exceptional. But even big-rig drivers pull over for his ribs.
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