The menu is almost the same as when it opened in 1981. It's extremely popular -- on Friday and Saturday nights, reservations are a must. The reason is simple: Old-fashioned European fare at great prices. The appetizers include celery remoulade, pate maison and smoked salmon; they can be ordered separately or as a sampler plate, a steal at $8. Entrees ($8-$18) range from a very juicy duck a l'orange to a rack of lamb that comes cooked exactly as ordered; the daily special can be anything from osso buco to sauteed rockfish. All selections come with a crisp Caesar salad. If you don't have room for dessert, don't fret -- the sweets here are merely pedestrian. But if you must, there's chocolate mousse, creme caramel, German chocolate cake.
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