Cake Bar

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Editorial Review

Lewes's newest eatery, has a motto that fits it perfectly, "Come for Dessert, Stay for Dinner." Opened in April by the owners of Catonsville, Md.'s award-winning SugarBaker Cakes, Cake Bar's desserts deserve top billing.

The first of the restaurant's two rooms is dominated by a bakery case filled to the brim with all sorts of confections, from small bags of cookies to full-size cakes. Smith Island cake, a Delmarva delicacy served by the slice, is creamy, rich layers of yellow sponge cake, dark chocolate fudge and crushed peanut butter cups. Caramel apple coffeecake is so moist, the server had a difficult time separating a piece from the pile; studded with fresh apples and pecans, the concoction offers a perfect butter-sugar balancing act.

In the second room, a grouping of tables situated around a large bar strikes a nice balance between casual and formal: The aqua-colored bead board, for example, somehow works with the crystal chandeliers and gold-and-aqua flocked wallpaper.

Efficient and friendly servers present a menu that has a selection of mostly predictable items, such as shrimp and grits, Patty's cake (Maryland crab cake) and porterhouse steak. But even the most mundane sandwiches exhibit attention to detail: A BLT with guacamole, for example, features smoked applewood bacon, homemade guacamole, arugula and vine-ripened tomato set on thick multigrain bread.

-- Carol Sottili (May 27, 2011)