Editors' pick

Cashion's Eat Place

$$$$ ($25-$34)

Editorial Review

Signs of the times in Adams Morgan: Cashion’s Eat Place has replaced its bread and butter with lavash and tahini, and recast its menu to showcase small plates. Do I miss ordering an appetizer followed by an entree and dessert? Sure, but the new format, seven categories long, dangles all sorts of enticements in my face. “Raw” yields a ginger-and lime-shocked cobia seviche (with fish cut to look like tapioca pearls), and “Meat” sometimes finds a couple of lamb meatballs in a tomato sauce so tantalizing you erase every trace before you let it go. Chef John Manolatos, could you please start selling the pleasure by the jar? His list of vegetable choices is one of the longest and strongest; the short season for squash blossoms saw me grazing on them as a delicate tempura with anchovy-laced mayonnaise. Pastas are a strong suit, and so is the service, which lets you try tastes of different wines before committing to one. Mostly mouthwatering, the food comes in a dated package, 19 going on 20 — and looking it.

2012 Fall Dining Guide

2012 Fall Dining Guide
By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, Oct. 21, 2012

Beef stew brightened with lemony spaetzle, cornmeal-crusted banana peppers stuffed with ricotta cheese, a chocolate tart with lashings of caramel and a crackle of sea salt ... the food at this Adams Morgan stalwart is what I’d want to make at home if I weren’t having dinner in a restaurant every night. “Summer on a plate!” a genial server announces an appetizer of three colors of juicy tomato, threads of fresh basil and superb mozzarella. Oh, the dining room is showing its years, but the tunes and hospitality help forgive signs of wear and tear. This is a kitchen that does every season proud, and while John Manolatos nails almost every cuisine he serves -- try his light tempura or zesty gumbo sometime -- the chef’s Greek is always great. First dish among equals is crisp-soft shredded goat alongside cocorubio beans spiked with jalapeno and served with fluffy grilled pita plus yogurt, natch. To keep chefs guessing, I often leave some food on my plate. Given that goat, I must have scraped a centimeter off the china.