NOTE: Bryan Voltaggio has since left the restaurant.
2005 Fall Dining Guide By Tom Sietsema
Washington Post Magazine
Sunday, October 16, 2005
Convenient for lobbyists and the people with whom they seek face time, this sleek, gray-and-blue destination on the Hill (notice the Capitol across the way?) is also a prime place to cut into a steak, be it a thick rib-eye or a pedigreed Wagyu sirloin with the texture of butter. But meat is far from its only asset. The kitchen, under the eye of chef Bryan Voltaggio, also sends out fine oysters (nicely matched with beer sorbet), robust tuna tartare, buttery skate with an olive puree, and side dishes that go beyond the routine: Picture creamy goat cheese pasta, fleshy chanterelle mushrooms and green beans with onions. No detail is too small. With your steak comes a plate dotted with five mustards, and the suave waiters wear suits that I wouldn't mind hanging in my own closet. Meanwhile, the deep American wine list means you will sip as well as you eat.