Choong Hwa Woon Restaurant

Asian, Chinese, Korean
$$$$ ($14 and under)
'

Editorial Review

Choong Hwa Woon is Koreatown's most popular Korean-Chinese restaurant. There are no ventilation hoods or table grills here. The walls are rough plaster in creamy yellow beige; there are dark wood trims and lots of large tables.

I had the sook mou mill sam sun gan jha jang (special mugwort/buckwheat noodles served with shrimp, squid, vegetables and black bean sauce) but not without having to convince the waitress I really wanted to try the dish. Mugwort, a plant highly prized by Koreans, looks like chrysanthemum leaves and lends a musty taste and olive drab color to the noodles.

The noodles and sauce are served separately, and you mix them together in the larger bowl, using a round-bowl spoon. Perhaps I should have chosen the version with spicy sauce, because I didn't think the dish had much taste. The fried dumplings were good but were more Chinese style than Korean. -- Nancy Lewis