Chubby's Southern Style BBQ

American, Barbecue
$$$$ ($15-$24)

Editorial Review

By Nancy Lewis
Thursday, July 22, 2004

Chubby's reminds me of a barbecue joint where my family used to stop on the way to see my grandmother in Covington, Ga. It is vintage roadside restaurant circa 1950s, with a stack of wood by the front door, a bar with stools, and vinyl booths and tables. There's also a takeout window and a screen door, albeit metal. The pulled pork ($16.99 a pound including two side dishes) -- more chunks than strands -- and the baby back ribs ($18.99 a rack) -- plump and meaty -- have that sweet caramelization that long, slow cooking brings. The barbecue sauce is classic southern style: tomato-based with mustard and brown sugar, though perhaps a bit too thick and sweet for most tastes. Somehow it seems right with the chunky pork. The ribs don't need any embellishment; they are stars.

The coleslaw, though nicely shredded, is surprisingly dry and mostly tasteless. The potato salad aspires to be better, with medium-size chunks of perfectly cooked potato accented with egg and green pepper, but the otherwise good dressing is spiced to the point of being orange and off-putting. The homemade potato chips that come with the sandwiches have the same flavoring but with better results.